New construction usually has cast in place concrete foundation walls that are eight ft tall and nice and straight and usually do not leak much moisture. There is more often than not all pavement on the floor. This by and large ends up as a great big empty cube that reminds persons of an unfinished living space. In order to finish this area off you yourself will want to build a 2×4 frame around the edge where you can fit insulation and wiring and wallboard. This does not have need of a perfect job. What I mean is that it can be a little bit out of plumb and that wouldn’t matter because the walls are not in fact structural at all and could maybe fall all the way out and not negativly effect the house at all. So I say construct the walls one stud at a time and nail them down to the floor as well as ceiling joists and you will have a great start.

Once you get the walls all finished then it’s time to do the suspended ceiling. To conserve time and money use 2X4 panels of suspended ceiling tile. Make sure to nail the wall angle to the studs all around the outer surface. Just measure down from the ceiling usually 4 and ½ in. to the top of the wall angle ceiling piece. In the center I regularly use a drywall finish so that needs some framing around the I-beam and the heat ducts. That provides you a serious nail base for your ceiling. Only keep an eyeball on your track and keep it fairly straight. The light fixtures usually install with the suspended ceiling.

The next step are going to be the doors and trim mouldings. Use prehung doorways along with pre primed molding. That will be the fastest and cheapest. Then give everything a coat of paint. Carpeting would be next. I make it sound uncomplicated here I know, But after you have done a few of these they are all look the same. After 20 or 30 you yourself could build them in your sleep.

I have observed zillions of beginner finished basement jobs. I should say the biggest mistake that amateurs do would be is try to be a perfectionist. That is not obligatory. These jobs don’t have to be faultless. What they have to be is done. Done is the keyword. So endeavor to get as much help as possible and remember that the light is sort of low in these places so perfect might be not necessary.

There are two different types of insurance for basements. Flood insurance and sump pump insurance. If you have a finished basement you need both. I suppose if you live in a flood zone you should get FEMA insurance. I can’t quote and prices but I can say that people that have bought the insurance seem pretty happy the did buy it when they get a quote for damage. The waterproofing is usually pretty cheap by comparison. – Bob

Components
All sump pump systems include the same five components, although they vary in size based on the amount of water they are required to handle.
In the United States, components are fairly consistent. For residential applications, they consist of:
1. A plastic or metal sump liner, either 18 or 24 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 feet deep.
2. A pump, usually 1/3 or 1/2 horsepower and powered by either at 12-volt DC battery or standard 120-volt AC current.
3. A discharge pipe, typically 1 ½ inch PVC.
4. A check valve to make certain the water in the discharge pipe doesn’t flow backwards back into the sump;
5. A cover to keep vermin, pets, and debris out of the sump.

Sizing
Pump Size: A properly sized pump is significant. Too small and it won’t be able to keep up with water flowing into the sump. Too large and it creates unnecessary expense. An oversized pump will also “short-cycle,” turning on and off in rapid succession, which leads to premature pump failure. So getting the right pump is an essential first step to ensuring basements stay dry.
“It’s important that your pump can draw water out of the basin (or “sump pit”) faster than water flows into it,” notes Duane Friend, at the University of Illinois Extension Office. “Therefore, the first thing you need to measure is the amount of water that drains into the basin during a high-flow period. During a heavy rain, stick a ruler in the basin and measure how many inches of water flow into the basin in 60 seconds.”
With an 18-inch sump, each inch of distance downward equals one gallon. In a 24-inch-diameter basin, each inch is roughly 2 gallons.
In a new construction situation, approximate flow rates can be calculated based on rainfall averages, soil type and the size of a home’s footprint.
Once the volume of water that will need to be removed has been calculated, the installer will need to figure out the “total dynamic head” of the discharge pipe. This is the sum of the “static head” (the height in feet between the pump and the end of the discharge pipe) and the “friction head.” Friction head is calculated based on the length, diameter and material of the discharge pipe, and the number of turns involved. A table to analyze friction head is available on the www.waterproofmag.com website.
Knowing the maximum flow rate figures, the total dynamic head pressure involved, and the budget, the contractor or designer can determine the best pump for the application.
Basin Size: The size of the sump pit is also principal, as it plays a part in how long the pump runs and how long it takes to fill up. If the basin fills too quickly it may be best to install a larger one.
If the basement is already finished, a cheaper option may be to raise the height of the pump switch, basically making the sump deeper. This technique, however, also increases the chances the sump will overflow, so be careful.

Power Supply
Direct-Wired: Almost all sump pumps run on standard 120 volt AC current, but the pump ought to be supplied with its own line from the breaker box. It must also have a dedicated breaker. In most areas, the power supply must be installed by a licensed electrician unless the installer is also the homeowner. As always, check with local building codes and ordinances.
Pumps are usually hard wired into the electrical system, rather than plugged into a conventional outlet.
Battery-Powered: Sump pumps face their highest loads during thunderstorms, when rainwater pours into the sump pit from the foundation drainage system. Unfortunately, thunderstorms can also disrupt a home’s power supply, knocking the pump offline at the time it is needed most. That’s why some homes-especially those with finished basements-have a second battery-powered sump pump in case the first pump fails. In a few areas of the country, where the sump pit only fills sporadically, battery-operated pumps are used as the primary.

The SmartHome sump pump is a next-generation battery-operated sump pump. It is self-testing, self-diagnosing, and will immediate notify the owner by telephone and email if a component stops functioning.

Setting up a battery-powered secondary pump involves purchasing and installing the following components in parallel with the others:
A 12-volt DC sump pump matching the flow and discharge requirements of the primary pump.
A 12-volt DC lead-acid battery. A typical automobile battery is adequate. Some use marine-grade deep cycle batteries which are more expensive, but lasts longer.
A “trickle-charge” battery charger to keep the lead acid battery fully charged.
A separate water level sensor, check valve, and other components. The discharge pipes usually connect downstream of the check valves.
“One of the problems with most backup sump systems is they are rarely used so a component failure will not be noticed and the system will fail to operate when needed,” says Friend.
A few battery-powered pump systems have an integral computer that tests the system periodically and sounds an alarm if something needs to be replaced-like a “check engine” light on a car.
Regardless, Friend recommends that backup systems be tested monthly. “A good time to test is just after a rain storm,” he says. “Pull the plug on the sump pump so the sump well fills and validate the backup system activates and empties the well.”
Water-Driven: Recently, a few manufacturers have begun offering sump pumps that use the home’s culinary water supply to power the pump. The pressure in the home’s main water line turns an impellor, which drives the pump. These devices do away with the need for electricity entirely. They do cost more than motor-driven pumps, but because they don’t need a back-up pump, they can be cost-effective.
Regardless of the type of pump installed, plan on also using a simple battery-powered water alarm. The water sensor is attached to the sump liner a few inches below floor level and will sound a shrill alarm if the water level rises that high up.

The discharge pipe should end as far from the house as possible. Here, it has been routed to a dry well, with perforated pipe and gravel to improve drainage.

For the reason that pedestal pumps sit above floor level, they are usually hidden from sight in finished basements. This can be a purpose-built enclosure, or by building the sump in a closet or furnace room.

Pump Type
Regardless of the type of power supply, sump pumps are in general divided into two classifications, pedestal and submersible.
Pedestal pumps are mounted on top of the pit, where it is more easily serviced, but also more conspicuous. Submersible pumps sit inside the sump-usually near the bottom-and are completely immersed in the water.
The decision is usually based on if the the basement is finished, or will be, as the submersible pump is less obtrusive.
In commercial applications, submersible pumps are generally common, as they funtion on a different principle. Unlike pedestal pumps that “suck” water up from the sump like soda thorugh a straw, submersible pumps “push” water up the pipe.
Discharge Pipe
The discharge pipe should end as far from the house as doable, to prevent the water from getting it’s way back below the foundation.
In decades past, the pipe was often connected to the sanitary sewer routine. This practice is now outlawed as it can overpower the water treatment facilities. Be aware that if you are retrofitting an older home, codes and ordinances may require you to also deflect the discharge line.

This can be caused by a slow to react sump pump if you have one.
Maybe yours needs to be changed. On the other hand if yours
is pumping water out before it gets half way up there is a good
chance that your drain tiles around the outside of the basement
have filled up with silt and sand and can no longer handle all
the water trying to get in.

We can fix both things but it is your duty to call right away
and get the ball rolling. The longer you wait the more mold
builds up. Mold starts within 24 hours of the carppet getting wet.
The padding is the first place. Then the carpet itself. After a
couple weeks the house could smell so bad that you would have
to get out for your own good.

Give me a call at 586 703 0112

Here Testamonial from our Testamonials page. All testamolials come here hand written and very genuine.

Very happy that they were able to fix the problem in our basement of water
leaking thru cracks in the wall without having to tear the entire wall
out of our finished basement as other companies suggested we do.G& MB. of Rochester Hills

Before we would excavate this wall crack out from the outside and try patching it. Not to mention the fact that we would have to remove part of his patio, digging is a hit or miss type of repair and does not always work. Now we repair these wall cracks from inside using an injection of foam or epoxy and install a dry well. This is a much more reliable solution.

These leaky rod holes actually can be worse leakers than the wall cracks. We routinely fix up to 50 of these per basement. On the other hand we have a 2 rod hole minimum. We do it all, big and small.

Basement water problems don’t have to plague you any more. All basement water can be eliminated, whether the water is coming from wall cracks or leaky rod holes. There is no doubt that Michigan is a wet state. Soggy cinder blocks, wet carpeting, white powder on concrete blocks can all be fixed with a basement waterproofing system from Oakbridge Construction….

We also work on a lot of block basements. Block basements are waterproofed differently than concrete wall basements. Block basements require a bit more expertise to get the job done right. Give us a call to stop water on the floor and walls.

Click here to download your copy of AAA Insurance Water Damage Brochure. This is a handy thing to print up and refer to. Click HERE.